Dead Flat

Heron

Rivers flow above the fields.

In the Fens when the grasses have grown, your horizon shrinks: all you can see is sky. But if you stand on a molehill you can see for miles across the flat, peaty fields to distant wind-farms. It doesn't sound that attractive, does it? 'Hardly Wordsworth's picturesque, daffodillian Lakeland.

For the most part the highest points are bridges that stand above the flood-line but the river dykes will do fine. Fenland rivers run through a sunken landscape at sea level, rising and falling with the tide.  Years of ploughing the black peat has led to the collapse of the soil so that the fields are a couple of meters below sea-level.

The Anchor at Sutton Gault.

At sunset we walked along the raised banks of the New Bedford River at Sutton Gault, high above the landscape with views of wet meadows and flashes of water populated by noisy waterfowl. Ponies grazed happily with their foals along the path and in the fields below.

The river and every pool, ditch and puddle reflected a metallic sky with a hint of rust in it. Ducks and waders became black silhouettes, doubled by their reflections. We heard rather than saw greylag geese, mallards, shovellers, redshanks and oystercatchers while sheep bleated in the background. At one point we heard the sound of someone running their thumb slowly over a comb; Garganey!

Wicken Fen

Our brilliant team of carers had given us a whole 24 hours away and we had chosen Sutton Gault because it is only 15 miles from home.  "The Anchor," which is famed for it's food, was the big attraction for us. It is quite a smart place with scrubbed wooden tables, panelled walls, very low beams and small windows. Nothing is supposed to distract you from the food. We were wearing our best clothes but Hanna was asked if she would be going up to change for dinner! Years ago we would have run away, but we just laughed as a bright red Ferrari pulled up next to my Peugeot "camionnette des frites".

The weather was so beautiful that evening with clear skies and no hint of breeze that we decided to order our drinks and starters and consume them outside where we could hear whitethroats singing and a distant cuckoo. The beer (Old Growler) was warm and tasty, as it should be, straight from the barrel. Hanna's white wine reminded us of a trip to the Mosel valley, many years ago. It was from New Zealand of course and much more of a mouthful than the German version.

Our starters arrived, served on slates with space between each ingredient and a tasty juice beneath. Hanna's was scallops and mine was pigeon breast but the accompaniments were the clever bit. I wish I could get pigeon more often, but it's a winter dish really.

Mayfly

We almost chose to have the main course outside too, but they had given us a precious window seat where we were content to chat and eat our dinner while planning an evening walk. It stays light until well after 10 pm at present.

You could say that the dishes are traditional with a modern twist. Hanna's venison cane on a bed of samphire which is like a tiny, wild, salty asparagus that grows by the sea. My pork belly and hock came with local asparagus on a mashed vegetable base and black pudding.

Hobby

I have already described the walk which we enjoyed so much we did it again in the morning. Even then we had a few more hours of freedom left so we crossed over from the Ouse to the River Cam below Ely where the oldest nature reserve in the world is to be found.


The National Trust owns Wicken Fen which used to be a secret place where Cambridge students cut their teeth as naturalists and scientists. On a fine bank holiday Monday the car park was full and two extra fields had been brought into service. The shop and cafe had queues so we hurried on along the banks of the lode towards the marshes. The new path is a cycle way and there is a bicycle rental shop at Wicken but I must say that we had no problem with the bikes and it was good to see so many families out in the countryside. The other big change is that dogs are allowed everywhere on the paths, but on leads. Those changes have been great for bringing in the public and the broader Trust membership, but what about the wildlife?

Large red damselfly.

It's not just the visitor facilities that have been expanded: the reserve is much bigger than it used to be. There are large open flashes on grazed meadows and a lot of fen and reed has been rescued from the ever-encroaching willows. A bittern had been heard and we saw four or five marsh harriers circling low over the brown reeds. The first damselflies and mayflies were hatching and these attracted at least seven hobbies that swooped and turned overhead like scythe-winged fighter planes.

We can't wait to go back for another day out in the black, flat, boring fens!